To celebrate the School of Natural Skincare’s 15th anniversary, we’re sitting down with our founders, Gail and Gareth, for a candid Q&A. From their proudest moments to the biggest challenges, their favorite skincare products to how they unwind, they’re sharing it all—plus a few surprises!

Join us as we look back, reflect, and celebrate 15 years of passion, nature, and creativity.

Plus, we’ll share some of Gail and Gareth’s favorite natural skincare formulas with you. 

Ready? Let’s dive in!

1. What is your favorite skincare ingredient?

Gail: So many to choose from! I love versatile ingredients that are quick and easy to use. Tetra-C (INCI Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) is one of my favorites – it is a very stable oil-soluble Vitamin C derivative that is easy to work with and provides excellent results. It can be easily mixed with carrier oils for an antioxidant facial oil and also used in emulsions. Vitamin C is most known for its antioxidant and collagen synthesis-stimulating properties and is therefore considered a potent anti-aging ingredient. We’ve included a lovely Vitamin C Antioxidant Serum featuring Tetra C in our Quick Guide to Formulaing with Vitamin C, which you can download here.

Gareth: I have too many! Historically, I would say rosehip seed oil, coconut oil and shea butter are my best friends and form the base of many of my favorite products. These ingredients have helped me so much since I was a teenager, and they are still my go-to ingredients today. But I think things like sea buckthorn CO2 Extract (rich in essential fatty acids and bioactive compounds), phyto-retinol, and co-enzyme Q10 (strong antioxidants with anti-aging properties that both help to reduce photo-aging) are the ones that I like the most in my products today. They pack that little bit of extra punch.

2. Which of the School’s skincare products do you use every day?

Gail: Lots! One favorite is our Orange Lip Balm, which I’ve made for over 15 years! It is by far the best lip balm I have ever used (much better than anything I have ever bought). The cocoa butter leaves lips so smooth, and beeswax creates a lovely protective barrier. Our children love making and using this product too. So simple and so effective. Give it a go!

I use many of the solid skincare and haircare products featured in our Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation, including a shampoo, conditioner, and facial cleansing bar. I get very dry hands, so the Coconut and Shea Hand and Foot Cream from our Natural Skincare Recipe Book is always on my nightstand.

Gareth: I also have LOADS to choose from. Firstly, the Coconut and Ylang Ylang Whipped Shea Body Butter from our Certificate in Making Natural Skincare Products. I enjoyed teaching people to make this in our live in-person workshops, and I still love it today!

I love using many formulas from our Natural Cosmetic Formulation Club, including the Soothing After-Shave Gel-Cream from our Formulaing Men’s Skincare class, which is light in texture and very soothing.

We also use lots of the household cleaning products at home, such as the Eucalyptus Dishwashing Liquid from our Formulating Natural Household Cleaning Products class, plus lots of zero waste cleaning products from our soon-to-be-released Formulating Zero Waste Household Cleaning Products class.

3. What’s your favorite essential oil?

Gail: It really depends on what I’m using it for and what time of day it is. If it’s for a facial product or in the bath in the evening, then I love frankincense essential oil, which has excellent skin benefits and such a calming aroma. For a general, all-around helpful oil, I love lavender, of course. Gareth always has a bottle of lavender essential oil in his bag; we never go anywhere without it!

Gareth: Well, as Gail said, I always have lavender essential oil with me wherever I go. Lavender is a bit old hat and old-fashioned, isn’t it? But, I don’t care. I just love it, and the fragrance is so diverse depending on which one you get. The oil pretty much does everything, and the fragrance is simply divine. Lavender Stoechas is my favorite. Besides lavender, I especially like ylang ylang extra (this one in particular), bergamot, neroli and rose.

4. What is your favorite formula?

Gail: As I’m approaching my mid-40s, I love our Frankincense Face Cream For Mature Skin With Coenzyme Q10 from our Diploma in Natural Skincare Formulation. It’s a rich moisturizer that nourishes the skin, alleviates dryness, and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. It features some of my favourite ingredients: rosehip oil, shea butter, aloe vera, panthenol and frankincense essential oil. The hero ingredient in this formula is coenzyme Q10 for its strong antioxidant properties, and for the ability to lower wrinkle depth and reduce signs of photoaging.

Gareth: I would have to agree with Gail here. I’ve used this formula for nearly 10+ years now, but I tweak it a little to make it more suited to my skin, which tends to be more oily. I merely take out shea butter and wheatgerm oil and increase the amount of rosehip and it is perfect for me. As much as I LOVE shea butter, it’s a bit too thick for use on my face.

5. What is your proudest achievement?

Gail: I can’t narrow it down to just one! I’ll choose three. Firstly, our family. Secondly, establishing and growing the School of Natural Skincare into the fabulous school it is today. Expanding our courses to include skincare, haircare, soap, and makeup, and setting up our Natural Cosmetic Formulation Club. Thirdly, living and working in China, Japan, Australia and New Zealand in my late teens and twenties. It was quite the adventure!

Gareth: Well, does Gail count as an achievement?? It might be…But again, as Gail has said, our family and growing the School of Natural Skincare whilst raising and homeschooling our three lovely children. Speaking several different languages, travelling, and living abroad for a few years.

6. What is a personal highlight of yours from the last 15 years?

Gail: Family holidays are always a highlight! I love exploring new places and spending time together as a family. In 2023, we had an amazing holiday in Slovenia, where we spent time in beautiful nature (lakes, rivers, mountains) and did some very adventurous activities, including zip lining and white water rafting. We also visited Tina (our awesome Cosmetic Scientist and tutor) at her home.  Our boys got on so well and had fun making a tree house together!

Gareth: I think travelling around the US, Australia and New Zealand for a year in 2014-2015 with our then-baby daughter whilst growing the School of Natural Skincare. It is perhaps the most amazing thing I have ever done. A real sense of adventure, freedom and possibility. We visited some incredible places, met some amazing people, went on some fabulous hikes, and one day I would like to go and do it all again. 

7. What is a professional highlight of yours from the last 15 years?

Gail: Publishing the A-Z of Natural Cosmetic Formulation was a highlight! Holding a physical book that you’ve poured hours and hours of care and intention into is quite an incredible feeling. Setting up our beautiful office and cosmetic lab was also a great achievement. It’s in a beautiful converted barn and is a joyful place to work.

Gareth: There have been many, but perhaps the highlight has been the launch and growth of our Natural Cosmetic Formulation Club. We’ve put so many hours of research and development into our Membership, covered an enormous amount of exciting topics, and produced some simply incredible learning resources from it all. I am not sure there is anything else like it, to be honest, and the ideas for future research and learning materials continue to pour out of us! It’s an inspiring project to work on and be part of.

8. What’s been your biggest challenge of the last 15 years?

Gail: Getting up each morning whilst completely sleep-deprived when our twins were born back in 2015 was a challenge! And the sleep deprivation continued for about 5 years. It’s incredible how your body adapts and continues to function on so little sleep! Coffee was most definitely my friend. Thank goodness all the children are good sleepers now. 

Also, the year I turned 40, I learnt that I have an autoimmune disease. For about a year, I felt really unwell. Fortunately, now, I have found ways to keep the symptoms at bay, and I feel better than ever. 

Gareth: I think juggling everything we have to do to not only to run and grow/evolve the School of Natural Skincare but to manage it around raising our kids, homeschooling them and running a household with all the extra-curricular activities we all do is a challenge but also perhaps what I am most proud about. Somehow, we do it all and at times, as Gail has said, with pretty much zero sleep!

9. Tell us something that followers won’t know about you.

Gail: I recently qualified as an Advanced Flower Essence Practitioner and Producer at Chalice Well in Glastonbury. I simply adore flowers, trees, and tuning into the energy of the natural world. My most used essences are Elm from the Bach range for when I’m feeling overwhelmed (juggling a business and family life is busy!) and Apple Blossom from the Chalice Well range for nourishment, replenishment and support – essentially it’s self-care in a bottle! 

Gareth: I used to play national league and international hockey (field hockey to our American friends). It pretty much was my life until I was about 28, and now I have returned to it as our children have started to play. I am now running the youth hockey at our local club and playing a bit for the men’s teams.

10. How do you relax?

Gail: I love listening to audiobooks, walking in nature, and swimming in the sea! In the winter, I love taking a bath with aromatherapy bath salts (homemade, of course!) and a face mask. Also, snuggling on the sofa with the children and watching an uplifting movie. 

Gareth: Yoga. I have practised yoga for a little over 20 years now. My practice keeps me sane, emotionally balanced, and physically fit, supple, and strong. It helps to keep me grounded and spiritually connected. Also lying with my legs up the wall at the end of the day. I like cold plunges, swimming in rivers and the sea, bodyboarding, walking, and hiking. I think my two favorite things to help me relax and unwind are being in nature and yoga.

11. How do you connect with and enjoy nature?

Gail: In lots of ways! Through the skincare I make and use that is rich in botanical extracts, plant oils and essential oils. Through my work with flower essences. And of course, being out in nature. Walking amongst the trees, admiring flowers. Being immersed in the energy of the elements – feeling the warmth of the sun, the wind in my hair, and wild swimming in rivers and the sea. Also bodyboarding! We as a family love bodyboarding in the Atlantic Ocean off the north coast of Cornwall.

Gareth: I love walking in nature, taking the same paths through the seasons to observe the shifting landscape — trees budding in spring, flowers in bloom, the golden hues of autumn. I have favorite trees to sit with, places where I pause to soak in the warmth of the sun or notice the changing light from winter’s retreat to summer’s glow. Sometimes, I pick a distant hill or landmark and walk there, trusting I’ll find my way. Nature isn’t just something I admire — it’s something I want to be immersed in. I embrace natural health, from herbs and homeopathy to essential oils and skincare. And while I prefer being in nature rather than just looking at it, sometimes, you do have to stop and admire the view!

12. In what ways has the School changed over the last 15 years?

Gail: In the very beginning, the School was run solely by Gareth and me. It was a creative and inspiring time as we built it from an idea into a global school. Now we are supported by an excellent team, and our professional cosmetic scientists, Tina and Nicole, share their expertise and experience with our students and members.

Gareth: The School has changed a lot over the last 15 years. In the early days, we just offered skincare classes. Since then, we’ve expanded that to teach skincare, haircare, makeup, and color cosmetics, soap and zero waste, and branched out into subjects like household cleaning products and oral care. I love how we’ve challenged ourselves to keep on innovating, and of course, that has all been made possible by our fantastic team, especially our Cosmetic Scientists Tina and Nicole.

13. What is a personal goal of yours for the next 15 years?

Gail: Gareth and I really want to walk the South West Coast Path! It is England’s longest waymarked long-distance footpath and is 630 miles (1,014 km) long! It follows the coastline of the southwest peninsula, through Somerset, Devon, Cornwall and Dorset. We need to wait until the children are older, as none of them enjoys hiking!

Gareth: Yes, I agree with Gail. I think walking the South West Coast Path is the big one. As I am from Wales and the land is really dear to me, I would also love to walk the Wales Coast Path. And something that Gail doesn’t know about yet is travelling the world to visit some of the most amazingly beautiful and divinely inspired buildings like Mont Saint-Michel, Hagia Sofia, St Mark’s Basilica, Saint Basil’s Cathedral and La Sagrada Familia – just to name a few!

14. What is a professional goal of yours for the next 15 years?

Gail: Continuing to build a strong community of natural skincare formulators and empowering them with the skills to formulate beautiful products through our courses. Continually adding new and exciting classes to our Natural Cosmetic Formulation Club so our members are at the cutting edge of natural and organic beauty.

Also, as our daughter is now entering her tween and teen years, I am particularly interested in educating this age group about how to look after their skin naturally and empowering them to formulate skincare products that are so much better for them than the synthetically laden products promoted to this age group.

Gareth: I think it has got to be about inspiring and empowering the next generation to embrace a natural and organic lifestyle — teaching them to create amazing cosmetic products, launch their own brands, and enjoy the journey along the way. 

I am really excited about all the work we have planned for our Natural Cosmetic Formulation Club, which is the place where all of our experiments, research, development and innovation go. We’d love to dive deeper into topics like natural household cleaning, zero waste, and oral care, while also exploring new areas like flower essences, crystals in cosmetics, homeopathic beauty, and natural perfumery. Exciting times ahead!

15. What is one piece of advice you have for people wanting to learn skincare formulation?

Gail: Beware of what you read and watch online! There is a shocking amount of incorrect and unsafe information on social media, YouTube, blogs, and AI. It is something we are working really hard to educate people about. Most people start making natural skincare because they want to use gentle and safe products, so ensure you learn from reliable sources. 

Gareth: Thank you and welcome! It’s an amazing hobby that many have taken further. It’s a creative thing to do, huge amounts of fun, and you get to use excellent products yourself out of your hobby/business…it’s a great way of empowering yourself to look after yourself in a meaningful way that aligns with your values. There’s so much potential, we hope you’ll join us. We do this because we absolutely 100% love it, live it, and believe in it. Come and join the fun. 

Free Online Organic Skincare Formulation Course

Fundamentals of Skincare Formulation

Learn the essentials of skincare formulation with our FREE course!

If you’re confused by all the misleading information out there, we’re here to guide you. Learn how to create natural and organic products confidently, using industry best practices, under the guidance of professional cosmetic scientists.

Exclusive for our newsletter subscribers. Sign up now.

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What you’ll learn:

• Formulation Foundations: The basics of cosmetic chemistry and skincare formulation.
• Bodycare: Make a shea-butter-rich body moisturizer with our pro formula.
• Facial Skincare: Rejuvenate your skin with our two facial oil formulas.
• Creams & Lotions: Create shelf-stable moisturizers using our tried-and-tested formula.
• Natural Ingredients: Understand the key natural and organic ingredients used in formulations.

Exclusive for our newsletter subscribers. Sign up now and start formulating your own natural products today!

The post Celebrating 15 Years: A Candid Q&A with Our Founders, Gail and Gareth appeared first on School of Natural Skincare.

Gail has been making this formula for more than 15 years, and now her children love making it too! She says it is by far the best lip balm she’s ever used and makes a batch a couple of times a year, so she is never without one.

Natural lip balm ingredients

This recipe features just a few easy-to-find ingredients. Choose organic versions of the ingredients if you’d like to make an organic lip balm.

Beeswax is an occlusive that creates a protective barrier on the lips, and it also thickens the product into a semi-solid product.

Cocoa butter is an emollient and helps to smooth and soften the lips, plus gives the product a beautiful chocolatey aroma. It also functions as an occlusive and a thickener.

Carrier oil (eg, sunflower, sweet almond, or jojoba oil) is another emollient helping to smooth, soften, and moisturize the lips.

Orange essential oil gives the product a wonderful, uplifting aroma, and it has antibacterial properties. Sweet orange essential oil is non-phototoxic.

Vitamin E is an antioxidant that helps to prolong the shelf life of this oil-based product.

Orange Lip Balm recipe

This recipe makes approximately 10 lip balm sticks. Make half the recipe if you want to make less.

Ingredients:

30g beeswax (or a vegan wax eg candelilla wax, which creates a similar firmness)
20g cocoa butter
49.4g sunflower, sweet almond or jojoba oil
0.5g orange essential oil (or use peppermint or geranium)
0.1g Vitamin E (95% mixed tocopherols)

Equipment required

Digital scales that measure to 0.1g, a heatproof lab beaker or a pyrex jug, a saucepan of simmering water or a hot plate, suitable packaging (eg twist up lip balm sticks).

How to make lip balm

The process is very easy!

1. Weigh the beeswax, cocoa butter and carrier oil into a heat-proof beaker.
2. Place the beaker into a water bath or onto a hot plate and heat until melted (this will be around 70°C).
3. Remove from the heat and allow to cool a little, but not so much that it thickens.
4. Add the essential oil and Vitamin E and mix thoroughly.
5. Carefully pour into twist-up stick containers. Allow to cool before putting the lid on.

That’s it! Simple and lovely! These make wonderful and inexpensive gifts, too.

See our list of recommended suppliers if you want to have a go.

Quick lip balm video tutorial

This quick reel shows you how to make the lip balm step by step!

Like this and want to make more gorgeous skincare products?

You’ll LOVE our Certificate in Making Natural Skincare Products. Featuring over 120 recipes for cleansers, toners, moisturizers, balms, masks and scrubs, you can be making a complete set of gorgeous facial products in no time! Find out all about it here.

Free Online Organic Skincare Formulation Course

Fundamentals of Skincare Formulation

Learn the essentials of skincare formulation with our FREE course!

If you’re confused by all the misleading information out there, we’re here to guide you. Learn how to create natural and organic products confidently, using industry best practices, under the guidance of professional cosmetic scientists.

Exclusive for our newsletter subscribers. Sign up now.

Sign up now

We look after your data in accordance with our privacy policy.

What you’ll learn:

• Formulation Foundations: The basics of cosmetic chemistry and skincare formulation.
• Bodycare: Make a shea-butter-rich body moisturizer with our pro formula.
• Facial Skincare: Rejuvenate your skin with our two facial oil formulas.
• Creams & Lotions: Create shelf-stable moisturizers using our tried-and-tested formula.
• Natural Ingredients: Understand the key natural and organic ingredients used in formulations.

Exclusive for our newsletter subscribers. Sign up now and start formulating your own natural products today!

The post How to make Gail’s favorite Orange Lip Balm appeared first on School of Natural Skincare.

Read on to discover when Gail and Gareth met, how the School started, how we transformed from running in-person classes to teaching online, which course we created first and much more.

1. Where it all began

In 2010, after completing a sustainable living internship in New Zealand the previous year, Gail took a leap of faith and started the business! In March 2010, after finalizing her formulas, she received her Cosmetic Product Safety Reports (CPSRs) for her first collection of skincare products and launched her natural skincare brand, Goodness & Wonder.

In April 2010, after studying for several years, Gareth qualified as an IEB Certified Aromatherapist.

In April of 2010, Gareth qualified as an IEB Certified Aromatherapist.

2. Teaching in-person classes and workshops

Gail ran her first in-person skincare-making workshop in May of 2010 in Bristol, UK, and in November of the same year, Gail and Gareth met—the start of a beautiful partnership!

We discovered a shared passion for teaching in-person classes and dedicated much of 2010-2013 to teaching in venues around the UK. We loved seeing students’ joy as they discovered the process of creating skincare and how proud they were of their creations. Imagine our delight to see that some have since established their own award-winning brands.

Gail created our new website, and the School of Natural Skincare was born.

When a student traveled all the way from the Philippines to attend a class, we knew then that we had something truly special and began to build our business with a global mindset.

3. Quitting our jobs and first online courses

2013 met us with some major new creative energies—some we had planned and hoped for and others happy surprises! In May 2013, we launched our first online course, which would eventually become our Certificate in Making Natural Skincare Products–still one of our bestselling courses.

A video from 2013 from our very first online course!

We were so committed to building the School of Natural Skincare that we quit our office jobs in the summer of 2013. More than a few people thought we were a little crazy, especially since we had just discovered that we were expecting our first child!

4. Going global: Becoming experts at teaching online

In our naivety, we had organized to teach an in-person class when our daughter was just 6 weeks old! The class was a success, but we soon realized it was too much of a juggle to care for a baby and keep teaching the way we had been.

So, from 2014 onwards, we doubled down on our online teaching.

Teaching online turned out to be a wonderful experience. More and more students could join us without needing to travel, and we could work around the unpredictable schedule of a baby.

Our students asked for a more advanced course that would teach them to formulate skincare products from scratch, and we were excited to offer it at last! Two months after releasing our Diploma in Natural Skincare Formulation, we welcomed the first 80 students to the course.

By 2016, after just six years of operation, the School of Natural Skincare had students in 50 countries, and by 2019, this had grown to students in 130 countries worldwide. Today, in 2025, we have students in more than 150 countries!

5. New tutors, advanced courses and a growing family

Cosmetic Scientist Chandni Patel joined our team early in 2016, bringing with her much expertise from the beauty industry. She supported students with questions that arose during their studies and worked on new course materials, including our Advanced Certificate in High-Performance Serum Formulation.

Our identical twin boys were born in November 2015. For several months, we had three children under two years of age—and not much sleep!

6. Accreditations and certifications

Between 2016-2017, we focused on building a business aligned with our ethics and values. This led us to become an accredited ethical business with the Ethical Company Organisation.

Accreditation by the CPD certification service followed, showcasing the high standard of our online teaching. All our courses have since been accredited – a testament to the quality of our teaching.

7. Tina joined our team, and we created our Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation

Cosmetic Chemist Tina Svetek joined us in 2017, bringing exceptional expertise in skincare and haircare formulation. A key member of our team, she shares her passion through our Formulators’ Forums and Tutor Q&As, making complex concepts accessible and inspiring our students. Her dedication and guidance enrich our courses and empower the next generation of formulators. We’re incredibly grateful to have her.

Tina spent much of 2018 formulating haircare products. In July 2018, we launched our Diploma in Natural Haircare Formulation, our first course focusing exclusively on haircare. Students of the course have gone on to formulate beautiful haircare products and launch successful haircare brands, including Curl Love and Beaute Blossom.

8. International bestselling book

In May 2019, we were excited to release our book, The A-Z of Natural Cosmetic Formulation, co-written with Tina Svetek. It was an international Amazon bestseller in the UK, USA, Canada and Australia simultaneously and has more than 500 5* reviews to date!

We wrote the book to dispel common myths and to give people the correct foundation of knowledge to support them on their formulation journey.

Also, in June 2019, we got married!

9. Entrepreneur of the Year and Best Online Organic Skincare Formulation School

In October 2019, the School of Natural Skincare was honored to win the Health and Beauty Entrepreneur of the Year Award. This award recognized entrepreneurs making a meaningful difference in health, beauty, and wellbeing. It was the perfect way to kick off our 10th anniversary celebrations in January 2020, marking a decade since Gail and Gareth founded the School.

Many awards have followed since then, including Best Online Organic Skincare Formulations School 2020, Online Natural Skincare Formulations School of the Year 2021, Online Natural Skincare School of the Year 2022 and Best Online Natural Skincare School 2024!

10. Office and cosmetic lab

In June 2019, we finally got the keys to our beautiful office in a gorgeous village in Devon, UK and established our own in-house cosmetics lab.

Our team grew, and for the next few years, we worked hard updating our flagship courses, including filming hundreds of video tutorials and product-making demonstrations.

11. Preservative Efficacy testing

Having our own lab enabled us to enhance our testing protocol. In 2020, while most people were at home baking sourdough and banana bread, we doubled down on Preservative Efficacy Testing (PET). We have since sent hundreds of products to a specialist microbiological lab. The test results prove the effectiveness of our preservative systems, meaning our students have the reassurance that they are learning best practices from safe and effective formulations.

12. Diploma in Natural Skincare Formulation (Third Edition)

Our flagship Diploma in Natural Skincare Formulation had a complete makeover, and we released a brand new edition in 2020. Featuring new formulations, new step-by-step product demonstrations, PET reports and much more, it’s the all-in-one course that helps our students formulate stunning skincare products and launch their own beauty brands!

13. Natural Cosmetic Formulation Club

In 2021, we were so thrilled to open the doors to our membership, the Natural Cosmetic Formulation Club. The Club is full of exciting hands-on masterclasses created by our cosmetic chemists, helping our members advance their expertise, innovate with new ingredients and create all the incredible natural cosmetics their heart desires!

14. New cutting-edge courses: Makeup, Soap and Zero Waste Diplomas

Between 2022 and 2023, we created three new innovative Diploma courses: Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation, Diploma in Soap Making and Diploma in Formulating Natural Makeup and Advanced Color Cosmetics.

Through our complete suite of courses, our students can now learn to formulate every type of cosmetic product, and we are a global leader in cosmetic formulation education.

In 2022, we welcomed Dr. Nicole Vorster to our team as a course tutor. Nicole is a distinguished chemist with a profound passion for education and formulation science. With her wealth of knowledge, Nicole provides invaluable support to students during their studies. She offers guidance and expertise in our regular Tutor Q&A, presents at our Formulator Forums, leads live teaching sessions and marks course assignments.

15. New website and 15th anniversary!

Our brand new website went live in 2024, and we couldn’t be more pleased with it!

That brings us to 2025, the 15th anniversary of the School of Natural Skincare, a milestone we are thrilled to celebrate.

Our school continues to innovate, with new classes and formulations developed each month for our Natural Cosmetic Formulation Club. We are also busy behind the scenes creating a new community app for our students and Club members—watch this space for news later in the year.

Thank you for joining us on this journey. We are eager to see what the next 15 years will bring!

Free Online Organic Skincare Formulation Course

Fundamentals of Skincare Formulation

Learn the essentials of skincare formulation with our FREE course!

If you’re confused by all the misleading information out there, we’re here to guide you. Learn how to create natural and organic products confidently, using industry best practices, under the guidance of professional cosmetic scientists.

Exclusive for our newsletter subscribers. Sign up now.

Sign up now

We look after your data in accordance with our privacy policy.

What you’ll learn:

• Formulation Foundations: The basics of cosmetic chemistry and skincare formulation.
• Bodycare: Make a shea-butter-rich body moisturizer with our pro formula.
• Facial Skincare: Rejuvenate your skin with our two facial oil formulas.
• Creams & Lotions: Create shelf-stable moisturizers using our tried-and-tested formula.
• Natural Ingredients: Understand the key natural and organic ingredients used in formulations.

Exclusive for our newsletter subscribers. Sign up now and start formulating your own natural products today!

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The post 15 milestones in 15 years of the School of Natural Skincare appeared first on School of Natural Skincare.

Body scrub bars don’t have to contain sugar, there are lots of other exfoliants to choose from too, though sugar scrub bars are a good place to start when making your own.

Body scrub bars were made popular by brands like LUSH with their iconic Buffy Body Scrub. Today we are going to share with you a super simple and effective sugar scrub bar recipe and step-by-step instructions for how to make body scrub bars at home for a fraction of the cost!

9 reasons to love exfoliating sugar scrub bars 

1. Their solid form means they don’t require any packaging, helping to reduce waste.
2. Body scrub bars contain nourishing oils and butters to smooth, soften and moisturize the skin.
3. The exfoliants, such as sugar, gently remove dead skin cells, and smooth and soften the skin.
4. The oils in the bar melt away makeup, sunscreen and other oil soluble impurities from the skin.
5. Scrub bars are easy and fun to make.
6. The ingredients are easy to find.
7. You can have fun substituting different oils, butters, exfoliants and essential oils, and creating bars in different shapes and sizes.
8. You can vary the strength of exfoliation they provide by changing the type and/or amount of exfoliating particles used.
9. Scrub bars can be used multiple times and are long lasting.

Cocoa and Vanilla Sugar Scrub Bar Recipe

This recipe is easy to make and smells incredible! It leaves skin super soft and wonderfully nourished. 

Product development questions 

Product type:

Solid anhydrous exfoliating bar.

Are you formulating to meet a particular standard or certification?

We are using naturally derived ingredients that are COSMOS-approved.

Who is your target audience?

People of all ages looking for a natural exfoliating product, particularly those interested in zero waste cosmetics.

What is the purpose/function of your product?

To gently exfoliate the dead skin cells from the top layer of the skin as well as leaving the skin feeling moisturized.

What properties and qualities do you want your product to have?

A solid brown-colored bar with a sweet scent that can be used multiple times. Gentle, yet effective exfoliant. Emollients to nourish the skin, leaving it feeling soft and smooth. 

What type of packaging will your product go in?

No primary packaging is required as it is a solid bar. The product should be left to drain between uses on a rack or soap dish.

What physical exfoliants are you using and why?

Ground olive stone and brown sugar have been included as the combination of a small and large particle size creates effective exfoliation and looks attractive.

What emollients are you using and why?

Cocoa butter acts as a hardener to create a solid, bar format. It is also a very effective emollient. 

Coconut oil provides softening and moisturizing properties to the formulation. 

Shea butter contains a high amount of unsaponifiables, which provide moisturizing properties to this formulation. 

What thickeners are you using and why?

Beeswax provides this product with its firm and solid properties as well as providing a protective, occlusive layer to the skin. 

Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that helps to solidify the product and also provides moisturization to the skin.

What essential oils and extracts are you using and why?

Coconut CO2 extract and vanilla oleoresin to provide a sweet, tropical aroma. 

What other ingredients are you using and why?

Cocoa powder as a gentle exfoliator and a colorant. 

Even though the product is anhydrous, as it will come into regular contact with water we have included a COSMOS-approved preservative, Preservative Eco. 

Vitamin E as an antioxidant.

Body scrub bar formula

Body scrub bar recipe in grams and ounces

Professional cosmetic formulas are written in percentages as we have above. One of the benefits of writing a formula in percentages is that it’s very easy to make different batch sizes, and when we talk about a batch, we simply mean a quantity of your product. That could be large or small depending on how many individual products you want to make.

You can read our article on How to turn a cosmetic formula into a weight-based recipe if you’d like to know more.

If you are a beginner then you can follow this recipe for a 100g or 4oz batch.

 How to make sugar scrub bars  

Sugar scrub bars are really easy to make. Simply follow these four steps.

1. Mix together phase A ingredients and heat to 70°C until the solids are melted.

2. Cool down phase A to approximately 50°C, add each phase B ingredient in turn and stir well.

3. Pour the mixture into a mold. Leave to cool.

4. Once solidified, take the bars out of the mold.

Watch the video to see exactly how to make a sugar scrub bar.

Instructions for use

To exfoliate the skin, rub the bar against the body whilst in the shower and rinse off. 

Troubleshooting and varying the sugar scrub bar formula

Troubleshooting

My bar is too soft

During summer or in hotter climates, the formula provided might turn out too soft. To solve this problem, you will need to increase the melting point of your product. You can do this by trying these options:

1. Replace soft butters (like shea butter) with hard butters (like cocoa butter).
2. Replace part or all of the liquid oils with a butter.
3. Add a wax, for example beeswax or candelilla wax, to your formula (lower the amounts of soft or liquid ingredients appropriately). Start by adding 2-3% of wax and see what the result looks like.

My bar is too hard and does not readily melt 

You may find your bar too hard for comfortable use, especially if you live in colder climates. You will need to adjust the formula to lower the melting point of your butter by doing one of the following options:

1. Replace very hard butters (like cocoa butter) with a softer butter (like shea or mango butter).
2. Replace part of the solid butters with liquid carrier oils. Start by reducing the amount of butters by 2% and increasing the amount of oils by 2%.
3. If the formula contains waxes, lower their amount and increase the amount of liquid oils.

My exfoliating bar is too abrasive/not abrasive enough

The strength of exfoliation depends on the amount of exfoliating ingredients (eg salt, sugar, seeds, etc) and their size. For stronger exfoliation, add more exfoliant to the formula, or for less strong exfoliation, lower the percentage of exfoliant. For more gentle exfoliation, use smaller particles. You can also change the type of exfoliant to vary the strength of exfoliation, for example try using an exfoliant that doesn’t melt in water (like sugar does), such as ground olive stone.

Varying the formula

Include surfactants or emulsifiers

Surfactants or emulsifiers can be included to help the product rinse off more easily. As surfactants are water soluble only certain ones can be incorporated into a solid scrub bar. Learn more about which ones to use in our Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation.

Increase or decrease the amount of exfoliants

Vary the strength of exfoliation by adding more or less exfoliant. 

Swap the exfoliant(s)

Sugar and salt are popular exfoliants for scrub bars but you can also use a wide range of other exfoliants. Botanical seeds or shells are an eco-friendly option for plastic-free biodegradable exfoliants. Unlike salt and sugar, they do not melt in the water during use. This means that a smaller amount of exfoliant is needed. Common examples are ground coffee, ground walnut shells, ground apricot stones, bamboo powder, etc. 

You can combine several different exfoliants in the same product, so have fun experimenting!

Change the oils and butters

Swap the oils and butters in the formula for other oils and butters. The options are endless!

Create a facial scrub bar

It may be surprising to hear that sugar can be suitable for a facial scrub, however even though it has rather large crystals, they melt in contact with water making them gentler. In our Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation we share with you a gorgeous Warm Vanilla Solid Facial Scrub formula.

Visual appearance

You can change the appearance of your scrub bar by the exfoliants you use, the shape of the mold you use and the color of the ingredients you use. 

Make your own complete range of beauty bars

Sugar scrub bars are just the start of what it’s possible to make in zero waste bar format!

Our brand new online Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation teaches you to formulate a wide range of zero waste beauty bars including solid facial cleansers and exfoliators, solid moisturizers and serums, solid deodorant, solid shower products, solid shampoo and conditioner.

You’ll also formulate powder concentrates, and learn about ingredient innovations that are helping to reduce waste – upcycled ingredients and biofermentation.

We really hope you’ll join us for this exciting course!

The post How to make sugar scrub bars + body scrub bar recipe appeared first on School of Natural Skincare.

The general rule is that if a product contains water (or an aqueous liquid like aloe vera, or flower water) it needs to contain a broad-spectrum preservative that is effective against bacteria, mold and yeast.

But what about products that don’t contain water?

What about solid bars, like shampoo bars and body wash bars?

It’s not always obvious or clear-cut with anhydrous products and solid bars so let’s explore these questions in more detail.

Do products that don’t contain water need preservatives?

Anhydrous (water-free) products generally don’t require preservatives as they are not prone to microbial contamination. This includes products like lip balms and anhydrous whipped body butters. 

The exception here is an anhydrous product that might come into contact with water (eg a body scrub or a cleansing balm applied with wet fingers). 

With these types of products you either need to be very careful not to introduce water to the product during use, or you should include a preservative.

What about solid products like shampoo bars, conditioner bars and cleansing bars? Do they need preservatives?

These are interesting types of products. They are usually anhydrous (they don’t contain water), so they are not prone to microbial growth. However they are used in the shower or around water so they will get wet frequently.

It is a common belief that solid, water-free cosmetic products do not require preservatives and some formulators and brands choose not to include preservatives in these types of products as they consider the risk of microbial growth to be low.

While this may be true to some extent, cleansing, conditioning and exfoliating products are normally used in and around water, so there is a high chance they will get wet. This can potentially lead to microbial contamination and growth. For this reason, we include a preservative in these types of formulations and we recommend our students do, too.

There is far more risk involved if you choose not to include one, and it’s not a risk we want to take. With several safe and natural preservatives to choose from, we consider that a much better option.

I thought preservatives are water soluble; so how do you add one to an oil-based or anhydrous solid product?

This is a very good question! As preservatives are usually used in water-based products they are usually water soluble.

Water soluble preservatives are effective against microbes present in water, but as they are water soluble they will not be soluble in a purely oil-based formula such as a conditioner bar or oil-based cleansing bar.

Some preservatives, however, are slightly oil soluble. The presence of salicylic acid, benzyl alcohol or glyceryl caprylate in the preservative blend allows it to be miscible with oils too, at least up to a point.

In our oil-based bars that will come into contact with water such as makeup remover bars, cleansing bars and hair conditioner bars, we chose to use Geogard 221 (INCI: Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol), as it is effective across a wide pH range and has good oil solubility so it can be used in water-free products easily. This can also be used in surfactant-based shampoo bars.

An alternative for surfactant-based bars such as shampoo bars is Geogard Ultra (INCI: Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate). This is a water soluble preservative but it comes in a powder form that can be easily mixed with the other powders in the formulation.

How about cold process soap bars? Do they need preservatives?

Cold process soap bars are an exception – they are solid products used in water that don’t require preservatives. 

After soap bars have been cured, they still contain some water, and so we might expect that water to become the source of microbial growth. However, water in soap bars is not available to microorganisms as it is bound up in the crystalline structure of soap at the molecular level. 

For this reason, it is common to say that soap has ‘low water activity’.

Another aspect that protects soap bars from microbial spoilage is their alkaline pH, which is so high that it is impossible for microorganisms to live in or on it.

Therefore, natural soap bars do not require any preservatives.

Expert guidance on solid product formulation

As you can see there are some grey and misunderstood areas in solid product preservation. 

With the proliferation of tutorials online by well-meaning but unqualified ‘experts’, it can be hard to know what’s right and what is wrong.

Our team of professional cosmetic chemists have been busy working on solid product formulations since 2020 and we have packaged up all their expertise into our online Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation.

This multimedia online course will teach you to formulate a wide range of solid, package-free products, including solid facial cleansers and exfoliators, solid moisturizers and serums, solid deodorant, solid shower products, solid shampoo and conditioner.

We’ll set the record straight about lots of topics like preservatives, surfactants, emulsifiers and pH. Plus you can reach out to our scientists with any questions you have.

You’ll also formulate powder concentrates, and learn about ingredient innovations that are helping to reduce waste – upcycled ingredients and biofermentation.

We hope you’ll join us for this innovative and exciting new online course. 

The post Preservatives in solid beauty bars: Do you need them? How? Why? appeared first on School of Natural Skincare.

Embracing multi-purpose products and knowing a few beauty hacks can help reduce the number of products you need to make or buy, and therefore the amount of waste you create.

Many of us have been guilty of products gathering dust on bathroom shelves or products not being used up before their expiration date. When you have separate products for every part of your body and products targeted for very specific functions then you are very likely to end up wasting some of them.

In developing our Diploma in Zero Waste Haircare and Skincare Formulation we formulated some gorgeous zero waste products that can easily double up for multiple purposes.

Here are some ideas to get you started.

Multi-purpose zero waste beauty products

Some of these products have been formulated to have a dual purpose, eg exfoliating and moisturizing, and others typically have one purpose but can easily double up as something else too, eg using a shampoo bar as a body wash bar.

Solid shampoo bars as body wash bars and shaving bars

Solid shampoo bars are not soap bars. They are made of cleansing surfactants, conditioning emulsifiers and nourishing emollients such as oils and butters. They are gentle cleansers with a hair and skin-friendly pH.

Solid shampoo bars can therefore easily be used as body wash bars too and are also useful if you shave your legs, as they create just the right amount of foam without drying on the skin.

Solid shampoo bars as 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner bars

Shampoo bars can be easily formulated to contain conditioning ingredients too (cationic ingredients, oils, butters and other specialist conditioning ingredients) meaning if you only need a light conditioner for your hair then a shampoo bar can be formulated and used as a 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner.

Solid facial wash bars as body wash bars

Solid facial wash bars are another surfactant-based bar. They used gentle surfactants and emollients to create a foaming bar that cleanses without drying. Facial wash bars could easily double up as body wash bars, too. 

Hair conditioner bars as in-shower moisturizers or shaving bars

Hair conditioner bars are made from nourishing oils and butters, and conditioning emulsifiers. 

They can double up as shaving bars for those of us who shave our legs as they provide slip and glide for the razor and leave the skin smooth. They can also be used as in-shower moisturizers! 

Solid cleansers and makeup removers

Oil-based cleansing bars also work a treat at removing makeup. The oils in the bar melt away makeup, sunscreen and other oil soluble impurities from the skin.

Exfoliating and moisturizing bars

Solid scrub bars contain nourishing emollients in addition to exfoliating particles meaning your skin is exfoliated and moisturized in one step!

Solid scrub bars can be formulated for the body or the face by choosing the type and amount of exfoliant carefully.

Hand/body wash powder

Powder concentrates are mixed with water at home by the consumer to become liquid products!

Our concentrated hand/body wash powder is suitable to use as a liquid hand wash or a body wash meaning you don’t need two separate products.

Cold process soap bars

Cold process soap bars are a really useful product to have at home as they are perfect for washing the hands and body.

They are a great addition to a zero waste lifestyle as they last a really long time and are economical to make.

Clay-based exfoliating cleansing bar and face mask

Clay-based bars have a solid, pliable, dough-like texture. When mixed with water a soft paste is created which is then applied to the skin, massaged and rinsed off.

To use a face mask, leave the paste on the skin for ten minutes before rinsing off.

To make a 3-in-1 cleanser, mask and exfoliator, add some exfoliating particles to the bar.

Make your own zero waste beauty products

We are so passionate about zero waste beauty products that we have created an entire course dedicated to showing you how to make your own zero waste beauty products, either for yourself or to establish a zero waste beauty brand.

Our brand new online Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation teaches you to formulate a wide range of zero waste beauty products, including solid facial cleansers and exfoliators, solid moisturizers and serums, solid deodorant, solid shower products, and solid shampoo and conditioner.

You’ll also formulate powder concentrates, and learn about ingredient innovations that are helping to reduce waste – upcycled ingredients and biofermentation.

The post How to create a minimalist beauty routine with zero waste products appeared first on School of Natural Skincare.

Lotion bars are one of more than 21 solid, zero waste beauty products you can make. They are so popular that we include them in both our Certificate in Making Natural Skincare Products and our Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation.

Most lotion bar recipes contain beeswax (or another wax) to help create their solid form, but lotion bars don’t need to contain beeswax. 

If you want to create a vegan product, prefer a product with a lighter skin feel, or don’t like the feeling of wax on your skin, then you may be wondering how to make lotion bars without beeswax

Keep reading for our Chocolate Orange Lotion Bar recipe without beeswax. The recipe uses just 4 easy-to-find ingredients and is super simple to make.

Here’s what we’ll be covering:

• What is a lotion bar?
• Ingredients in a lotion bar.
• Benefits of lotion bars.
• How to use a lotion bar.
• How to store lotion bars.
• Lotion bar molds.
• How to package lotion bars.
• How to make lotion bars without beeswax.
• Chocolate Orange Lotion Bar recipe without beeswax.
• How to make lotion bars step by step.
• Varying the lotion bar recipe without beeswax.
• How to make a lotion bar less oily.
• Adapting lotion bars for different climates.
• Face lotion bars.
• In-shower lotion bars.

Let’s dive in!

What is a lotion bar?

Lotion bars are solid moisturizing bars. They contain nourishing oils and butters like regular lotions do but unlike regular lotions they don’t contain any water.

Lotion bars work wonderfully as moisturizers, providing the skin with nourishing emollients that smooth and soften the skin, helping to keep the skin moisturized by preventing transepidermal water loss. 

However, as they are anhydrous and don’t contain water or humectants, they don’t hydrate the skin in the same way that regular lotions do.

Depending on the ingredients chosen they can be formulated as body lotion bars, facial serum bars, massage bars or in-shower lotion bars.

Ingredients in a lotion bar

Lotion bars contain:

• Butters.
• Carrier oils.
• Waxes (optional).
• Essential oils (optional).
• Vitamin E (optional).

As the bars need to set and stay firm at room temperature they will either contain a wax such as beeswax or a high quantity of a hard butter such as cocoa butter.

Essential oils are a nice addition to a lotion bar and Vitamin E will help extend the shelf life.

Benefits of lotion bars

We love making lotion bars! They are:

1. Really easy to make. Simply melt and mix all of the ingredients and pour them into a mold to set.
2. Use just a few ingredients – butters, oils and sometimes waxes.
3. Zero waste. Their solid format means that they don’t need to be packaged in a bottle or jar like a regular lotion or cream.
4. Long lasting. As they are very concentrated products you only need to apply a little, meaning they last for a long time.
5. No preservatives required. As they are anhydrous (waterless) they don’t need preservatives.

How to use a lotion bar

If you’re new to lotion bars you might be wondering how to use them. Lotion bars are really easy to use, you simply rub the bar onto your skin and the warmth of the skin will melt a little of the product. Rub in the melted product for soft and smooth skin. Apply to legs, arms and torso as required.

How to store lotion bars

As lotion bars melt when they get warm, the most important factor when choosing how to store lotion bars is to keep them somewhere cool. This usually means away from sunlight and other warm places. Storing them somewhere cool and dark is ideal. If you live in a very hot climate you may like to store your lotion bar in the fridge.

Lotion bar molds

To create the solid shape of a lotion bar, a mold is required. Silicone molds work really well and there are lots of shapes and sizes to choose from. 

Silicone molds are flexible, making it easy to remove the finished bar once it’s set.

How to package lotion bars

Lotion bars themselves are solid bars and therefore don’t require typical lotion packaging such as bottles, jars or tubes. 

To keep your lotion bar in good condition it’s a good idea to store it in a reusable container between uses. Any kind of container would work such as a tin, jar or box. Just remember that the bar contains oil, so something made of cardboard or paper may get oily.

How to make lotion bars without beeswax

Beeswax is an oil thickener and occlusive, and is often used in lotion bar recipes to help create the solid form of the lotion bar. It is really effective at this but it is also possible to make a lotion bar without beeswax if you wish to make a vegan product or don’t like the feeling of wax on your skin.

You could use an alternative vegan wax such as candelilla wax or carnauba wax, or you could omit wax altogether and instead use a higher percentage of butters to create the solid form of the bar.

Using a wax will give a firmer consistency and will create more of a barrier or protective (occlusive) layer on the skin. 

While cocoa butter is also an occlusive that will help to prevent transepidermal water loss and keep the skin moitsurized, cocoa butter is more easily absorbed and has a lighter skin feel than beeswax.

In our recipe, we have decided not to use any wax and use more cocoa butter instead. 

Cocoa butter also gives our lotion bar a wonderful chocolate aroma!

Chocolate Orange Lotion Bar recipe without beeswax

To make our lotion bar without beeswax you need just 4 ingredients!

This lotion bar smells absolutely wonderful, just like chocolate orange, and is so lovely to use on the skin. It is vegan and 100% natural, and can be 100% organic, too, if you choose to use organic butters and oils.

If you enjoy the smell of chocolate then make sure you don’t use deodorized cocoa butter. On the other hand if you don’t like the smell of chocolate then a deodorized cocoa butter would be a good choice.

For a 100 gram batch (about 3.5 oz) you will need:

80g cocoa butter

18.9g cold pressed sunflower oil (or another carrier oil of your choice such as peach kernel, apricot kernel, etc)

1g orange essential oil

0.1g Vitamin E

How to make lotion bars step by step

For the greatest accuracy, we recommend using digital scales to weigh all of your ingredients (including the liquid ones). This is far more professional and accurate than using cups, spoons, drops, etc.

You’ll need to melt the ingredients together by creating a double boiler (bain-marie) or by using a laboratory hot plate if you have one.

1. Place the cocoa butter and sunflower oil in a heat proof container, like a Pyrex jug or lab beaker.
2. Place your container in a double boiler/bain-marie or on a hot plate, and heat gently until the butter has melted. Stir with a spoon or spatula to ensure the mixture is fully melted and combined.
3. Once melted, remove the container from the heat and let it cool a little.
4. Add the essential oil and Vitamin E, and stir well. 
5. Pour your product into your chosen molds.
6. Place the molds in the fridge for one to two hours to cool and harden.
7. Once your lotion bar has cooled and hardened it can be removed from the mold and stored in a dark and cool place.

Varying the lotion bar recipe without beeswax

The recipe provided is a reliable recipe and a great starting point for creating a custom recipe if you wish.

You can substitute the carrier oil for any other carrier oil of your choice, or use a combination of several carrier oils. 

You can also use any essential oil of your choice (or a combination). For fun, you could also add some colored mica for a hint of sparkle.

When you become a more skilled skincare formulator you can experiment with different butters, too. As this recipe relies on butter for its solid form you need to be careful to use enough hard butters in the recipe.

You may also wish to adjust the recipe for your climate.

How to make a lotion bar less oily

People often ask how to make a lotion bar feel less oily. Simply put, as lotion bars are made almost completely of butters, oils and waxes, they are always going to be a more oily feeling product. 

We like the emolliency provided by lotion bars and if you use just a little and allow time for the oils to absorb, then the afterfeel is soft and smooth rather than greasy.

You can choose to use lighter or drier feeling carrier oils but ultimately you can’t change the oil-based nature of these products.  

Adapting lotion bars for different climates

The consistency of your lotion bar will be affected by the temperature at which it is stored, which means that you might need to adjust the recipe for your climate or current season of

the year. 

In hotter months and in warmer climates, the recipe may require more cocoa butter for the lotion bar to stay firm. If you find the recipe provided too soft, decrease the amount of liquid oils by a few grams and increase the amount of hard butters by the same number of grams. 

On the other hand, if you find the bar is too hard and doesn’t melt easily when rubbed on the skin, decrease the amount of cocoa butter and increase the amount of liquid oils in the recipe. This will likely take a bit of trial and error to adjust the recipe for your climate

perfectly. Start by changing the amounts by 2-3%.

In hot climates it can also be helpful to add wax to the recipe to increase the melting point further if necessary. Vegan waxes can be used if preferred.

Face lotion bars

Typically, lotion bars are used on the body, but it is possible to make a solid face lotion bar or even solid facial serum. 

Solid facial serums contain a higher percentage of speciality or luxury oils and butters, along with oil soluble active ingredients, vitamins and botanical extracts that provide special benefits to the skin such as Vitamin C and coenzyme Q10. Melt a little of the bar onto the fingertips and apply to the skin. 

You’ll learn to formulate solid facial serum bars as part of our Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation

In-shower lotion bars

In-shower lotion bars, also known as in-shower body oil/moisturizers, are a wonderful variation on a lotion bar. They are used in the shower as the final step of a shower routine: rub against the skin after cleansing to leave the skin feeling moisturized and soft. 

You’ll learn to formulate in-shower lotion bars as part of our Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation

Make your own zero waste beauty products

If you like the solid and zero waste nature of lotion bars plus how easy they are to make, then you’ll be excited to discover there are many more solid beauty products you can make, too!

Our brand new online Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation teaches you to formulate a wide range of zero waste beauty bars including solid facial cleansers and exfoliators, solid moisturizers and serums, solid deodorant, solid shower products, and solid shampoo and conditioner.

You’ll also formulate powder concentrates, and learn about ingredient innovations that are helping to reduce waste – upcycled ingredients and biofermentation.

We really hope you’ll join us for this exciting new course!

The post Lotion bar recipe without beeswax appeared first on School of Natural Skincare.

But did you know that not all solid bar formulas are the same?

There are actually five main types of solid bar formulas that you can make: emollient-based bars, surfactant-based bars, powder-based bath bombs, clay-based bars and cold-process soap bars! Each serves a different purpose and is suitable for different types of products. Let’s delve in and learn more!

1. Emollient-based bars

These are fairly simple formulations that use emollients (eg carrier oils and butters) as the base and lipid thickeners (eg waxes, fatty alcohols) to give them their solid form. The ingredients are heated together so the solid ingredients melt, then poured into a mold. 

To make emollient-based bars easier to wash off you can include emulsifiers in the formula.

It’s even possible to add certain kinds of surfactants to these products to aid with rinse-off, but note that as surfactants are water soluble not all surfactants are suitable for solid oil-based products. In our Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation we’ll explain which surfactants you can include and how to incorporate them.

You can include exfoliants to make them into scrub bars for the face or body!

Emollient-based bars need to be formulated to melt easily on the skin, but remain solid at room temperature. This means the formula needs to be adapted to the climate, since hotter climates will require harder bars with a higher percentage of lipid thickeners.

Cleansing bars, make-up remover bars and scrub bar

Emollient-based bars are great for oil cleansers, makeup removers and exfoliating scrub bars.

The oils in the bar melt away makeup, sunscreen and other oil soluble impurities from the skin, making them a perfect choice for step one of two-step face cleansing.

The bar is used by rubbing it on dry or wet skin, so that the emollients melt and release a gentle cleansing oil. Massage the oil on the skin, then rinse with warm water.

Solid moisturizers, lotion bars, serum bars and massage bars

Emollient-based bars work wonderfully as moisturizers, providing the skin with nourishing emollients that smooth and soften the skin and helping to keep the skin moisturized by preventing transepidermal water loss.

Depending on the ingredients chosen they can be formulated as lotion bars, facial serum bars and massage bars!

Hair conditioner bars

Solid hair conditioners also fall into the category of solid emollient-based bars. The main difference is that they need to contain a high amount of a specific kind of emulsifier that will provide conditioning properties to the hair.

Bath melts

Bath melts are another type of solid emollient-based bar. Simply drop one in the bath for a relaxing bath and emerge with soft, nourished skin. You can even include special emulsifiers to help the oils disperse in the bath water.

2. Surfactant-based bars

Surfactant-based bars are very good at cleansing. As the name suggests, these are mainly based on surfactants, which give the products their cleansing function and which also create lather and foam.

In order to make them solid enough, the majority of surfactants need to be in solid form (powder, prill, pellets) with just a small quantity of liquid surfactants. 

To make them more gentle, nourishing emollients (such as carrier oils, butter or fatty alcohol) can be added to the formula.

Two main methods can be used to make surfactant-based bars and you’ll learn both on our Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation. 

To use a surfactant-based bar, simply rub it on wet skin or hair. Massage the skin or hair with your hands to create some lather, then rinse off.

Solid shampoo bars

Solid shampoo bars are a great example of surfactant-based bars. True shampoo bars are not soap bars but rather use surfactants to provide effective and gentle cleaning of the hair and scalp.

Body wash bars and facial cleansing bars

If you prefer not to use soap bars then you’ll love body wash bars and facial cleansing bars. They may look like soap bars but they are not!

Surfactants provide gentle cleansing, and emollients provide skin moisturizing and nourishing properties.

Bubble bath bars and shower bombs

A fun use of surfactant-based bars are bubble bath bars! They are crumbled under running water to create an abundance of foam and are a wonderful replacement for liquid bubble baths packaged in a bottle.

Shower bombs become a creamy, foaming paste that can be lathered against the skin to cleanse it, creating a novel shower experience.

3. Powder-based bath bombs

Bath bombs fall into a category of their own! They contain a variety of powders – citric acid and sodium bicarbonate are the main ingredients – and are pressed into molds to create solid shapes.

It is really fun to experiment with different colors and shapes, and including extra ingredients like dried botanicals or sparkly mica.

Bath truffles are similar to bath bombs but they contain butters to make them extra nourishing.

4. Clay-based soft bars

A third type of solid formulation is based on clay. These products do not have the same solid consistency as the first two formula types but instead have a soft pliable dough texture that can be molded into a bar shape.

Perfect for multi-purpose cleansers and face masks, these zero-waste cleansing bars create a tactile, sensory experience as the user transforms them into a soft paste by mixing them with water. The paste is applied to the skin, massaged and rinsed off. 

5. Cold pressed soap bars

Cold process soap bars are a category of zero waste beauty product in their own right! Soap bars provide gentle and effective cleansing for the skin.

Cold process soap bars are made via saponification; the chemical reaction that takes place between fat (for example, plant oil, plant butter or animal fat) and sodium hydroxide, also called ‘lye’. 

The fatty acids and unsaponifiables in the natural oils and butters used to make soap give the soap nourishing and softening properties. Soap contains glycerin too – a humectant that moisturizes the skin.

When choosing which zero waste beauty products to make, you can choose to get into cold process soap making too, or not. As you can see, the choice of solid, zero waste beauty products you can make is huge even without soap bars. 

Make your own zero waste beauty products

We hope you are excited by all the formulations it’s possible to create!

Our brand new online Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation teaches you to formulate the first four types of solid products – and you can add on cold process soap bars too, if you like!

You’ll learn to formulate a huge range of zero waste beauty products including solid facial cleansers and exfoliators, solid moisturizers and serums, solid deodorant, solid shower products, solid shampoo and conditioner. You’ll also formulate powder concentrates, and learn about ingredient innovations that are helping to reduce waste – upcycled ingredients and biofermentation.

The post 5 types of solid, zero waste bar formulations to learn appeared first on School of Natural Skincare.

So you may be wondering what the differences are between solid products and their regular liquid, cream or fluid counterparts.

• Does solid skincare work?
• How is a solid format achieved?
• How are the formulas different?
• Do they contain different ingredients?

Let’s delve into 13 differences between solid skincare products and regular skincare products.

But before we do, let’s reassure you about one thing.

Solid skincare works in pretty much the same way as regular skincare

Before we explore the differences, let’s look at the main similarity. Solid beauty products work in pretty much the same way as regular products, and yes a properly formulated product will be as effective!

A solid shampoo cleanses the hair and scalp in the same way a liquid shampoo does by using surfactants to clean away sebum and dirt. 

A solid exfoliating bar will use exfoliating particles to buff away dead skin cells leaving the skin soft and smooth.

The oils and emulsifier in a makeup remover bar melt away makeup, sunscreen and other oil soluble impurities from the skin.

A facial cleansing bar creates a soft foam and gently removes impurities and excess sebum from the skin. 

A solid deodorant prevents body odor by containing deodorizing ingredients that are antimicrobial, absorbent or a combination of both.

13 differences between solid skincare products and regular skincare products

So now we’ve established that solid products work in a very similar way. Let’s look at how they are different.

1. They are packaging-free solid bars

Let’s start with the most obvious difference! Whereas regular cosmetics come in a range of viscosities – for example liquid like a toner, fluid like a lotion or semi-solid like a balm, packaged in various bottles and jars – solid skincare products are solid and packaging-free!

Whether it’s a shampoo bar, cleansing bar, body scrub bar or bath bomb, solid skincare will be in a solid format. The solid format means they are much better for the environment and can be considered zero waste.

2. Some remain bars, some change on application

Many bars will remain bars during use, even if they are used in water. A shampoo bar, body wash bar or lotion bar will remain in a bar format during and in between uses.

Other types of solid skincare will change texture or dissolve completely during use. Clay-based cleansing bars become a paste when mixed with water and applied to the skin, bath and shower bombs dissolve, bath melts melt entirely and turn into oil, bubble bars will crumble and turn into foam.

3. Solid skincare doesn’t contain water 

Whereas many regular cosmetics (lotions, toners, face wash, etc) contain water, the vast majority of solid skincare products do not contain water. Those that do, contain only a very small amount of water.

Water gives water-based or emulsion-based products their fluid consistency. Water is typically the ‘solvent’ in skincare products; other water soluble ingredients in the formula are dissolved in it. A body lotion, for example, will typically contain around 80% water. 

In order to create a solid bar format, water is removed from a solid skincare formula.

For example, a solid lotion bar contains 0% water. Instead, it contains a higher percentage of nourishing oils and butters.

4. Solid ingredients are the star!

As you might imagine in a solid skincare product, solid ingredients are the star. In order to achieve and maintain a solid format, many solid ingredients are used and there are lots to choose from.

In oil-based products like solid facial serum, makeup remover bars and massage bars, butters, waxes and fatty alcohols are used to both give the product its properties (moisturizing, nourishing, softening) and to create a solid format.

In surfactant-based bars like body wash bars, facial cleansing bars and shampoo bars, solid surfactants are very important. Solid surfactants come as powders, prill or pellets and they both make the product function as a cleansing product and give the product its solid form.

5. Thickeners are important

Thickeners are important to thicken and stabilizer a solid formula. Many solid ingredients function as thickeners too, so their role in a formula might be two-fold, such as using cocoa butter for both its emollient and thickening properties. 

At other times additional ingredients might be used primarily for their thickening and stabilizing properties, for example beeswax.

How to thicken and stabilize your product will be a key consideration when formulating solid beauty products.

6. Liquid ingredients can be used too, but only in low percentage

Solid ingredients are the star but there is also a place for liquid ingredients! In regular cosmetics you’ll likely use a lot of liquid ingredients (oil, water, hydrosols, extracts). In solid products you can only use a small percentage of liquid ingredients. 

Liquid surfactants, carrier oils, essential oils, humectants, liquid extracts, etc can still be used. The exact amount will vary depending on the product type and the other ingredients you are using, but overall you can expect to use much less.

7. Concentrated and long lasting

Following on from points 3, 4, 5 and 6, all these factors mean that solid skincare products are more concentrated and typically longer lasting than their liquid equivalents.

By removing water from a shampoo, for example, you are left with a shampoo concentrate.

By removing water from a lotion you are left with a much more concentrated and nourishing product, that only needs to be used sparingly and therefore lasts much longer.

8. Some usual rules of formulating can be broken

Solid beauty products will appeal to your inner rule-breaker!

If you have experience formulating regular skincare and haircare products, then you’ll be interested to know that some rules are broken when it comes to solid products.

Combining cationic and anionic ingredients in most cases doesn’t work well, but it is a complex topic and this rule has a few exceptions – solid shampoo bars are one of them. 

In water-based surfactant products like body washes and shampoo, oils and other emollients don’t work well in the formula. Rather than adding moisturizing properties, they stop the surfactants working properly, meaning you don’t get the cleansing, foaming product that you want. In solid surfactant-based products (shampoo bars, body wash bars, facial cleansing bars), a certain amount of nourishing emollients (such as carrier oils, butter or fatty alcohol) can be added to the formula to make them more gentle and you will still get lather and foam!

When formulating regular beauty products, typically preservatives are not added to anhydrous products as there is simply no need. On the other hand we usually do include preservatives in solid anhydrous products that will be used in water to protect them from microbial growth. 

9. The manufacturing process is simpler (no emulsification required)

The beauty of solid beauty products is that they are easy to make. There are no complicated processes to follow; for example you don’t need to worry about emulsification like you do with creams and lotions, or solubilizing essential oils into water-based solutions.

For most products the ingredients simply need mixing or melting and pouring into molds or shaping into bars. Easy! This means they are perfect for people new to skincare formulation or those who want to keep things simple.

This also means that you don’t need as much equipment. An immersion (stick) blender or homogenizer is not required. Instead a set of basic equipment will suffice – weighing scales, beakers, spatulas.

10. Reusable silicone molds are your friend

Regular beauty products come packaged in a variety of bottles and jars which need to be recycled or disposed of after use. 

Solid skincare doesn’t require any packaging but in order to make nicely shaped, consistent bars, silicone molds are your friend.

A wide variety of shapes and sizes are available. Keep it sophisticated and simple with squares and ovals or have fun with star shapes and holiday-themed molds. 

11. Need time to solidify, harden or dry

Solid skincare and haircare bars need time to solidify, harden or dry. Usually a couple of hours in the refrigerator is enough, but some may need to air dry for a couple of days.

12.  No PET testing required

Preservative efficacy testing is incredibly important for beauty products that are being sold to consumers.

However, solid, anhydrous (waterless) cosmetics don’t require microbiological testing – also called Preservative Efficacy Testing (PET) – as this only needs to be carried out on products containing water. 

As most solid skincare and haircare products don’t contain water then they dont require this testing, making them much less expensive to bring to market.

13. Testing and adjusting pH is a bit trickier

When formulating cosmetics that contain water, it’s important to measure the pH of the product and adjust it if necessary. In regular products this is done easily by dipping a pH meter or pH strip into the product to get a reading.

But how can we test the pH of a solid product and is it even necessary?

Fortunately, it is only necessary to test and adjust the pH of solid skincare and haircare products that are surfactant-based. This is to ensure that they are a suitable pH for the skin or hair as well as ensuring the preservative remains effective.

In our Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation you’ll learn two ways to measure the pH of solid products. Yes, it is a bit trickier but it is still possible (and important).

Formulate your own range of solid skincare and haircare products

We are so passionate about solid, zero waste beauty products that we have created an entire Diploma course to teach you how to formulate zero waste beauty products.

Our brand new online Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation teaches you to formulate a wide range of solid, package-free products including solid facial cleansers and exfoliators, solid moisturizers and serums, solid deodorant, solid shower products, solid shampoo and conditioner.

We look forward to welcoming you to the course!

The post Formulating solid skincare products – what’s different? appeared first on School of Natural Skincare.

You might be wondering what kinds of beauty products can actually be zero waste. Which beauty products can be switched for zero waste equivalents?

It’s common to assume that the types of products are limited to bath bombs or soap bars but actually the variety of zero waste beauty products is huge!

Our formulators have spent years creating beauty products for skin and hair in innovative solid formats. The beauty of these products is that they don’t require packaging and the product is simply used up, leaving no bottle or jar to dispose of or recycle. There are lots of other benefits of zero waste, package free products, too.

Let’s explore all the solid, zero waste beauty products you can make. From facial cleansing bars to body scrub bars and solid deodorants, we hope this list inspires you to have a go at making your own.

Zero waste beauty: Solid facial cleansers and exfoliators

Almost an entire facial skincare range can be made in solid, zero waste formats! Both oil-based and surfactant-based cleansing products can be made.

Cleansing bar and makeup remover

The oils in the bar melt away makeup, sunscreen and other oil soluble impurities from the skin, making them a perfect choice for step one of two-step face cleansing. Emulsifiers and surfactants can be included in the bar to aid their cleansing capacity and rinse-off.

Solid facial scrub

Facial scrub bars are gently exfoliating and contain emollients to nourish the skin, leaving it feeling soft and smooth.

Facial cleansing bar

These are not soap bars but instead are gentle surfactant-based bars that create lather and are very good at cleansing. To make them more gentle, nourishing emollients (such as carrier oils, butter or fatty alcohol) can be added to the formula. 

Clay-based exfoliating cleansing bar and face mask 

Clay-based bars have a solid, pliable, dough-like texture. When mixed with water a soft paste is created which then applied to the skin, massaged and rinsed off. To use a face mask leave the paste on the skin for ten minutes before rinsing off.

Facial moisturizer/serum bar

Solid facial serums contain a higher percentage of speciality or luxury oils and butters, along with oil soluble active ingredients, vitamins and botanical extracts that provide special benefits to the skin such as Vitamin C and coenzyme Q10. Melt a little of the bar onto the fingertips and apply to the skin.

Zero waste beauty: Solid shower and bath products

All your favourite bath and shower products can be made in a solid, zero waste format. From cleansing to pampering, invigorating to relaxing, exfoliating to moisturizing, there is a solid product to suit.

Bubble bath bars

A type of solid bath product that can be crumbled under running water to produce a rich and creamy lather. Bubble bars are different to bath bombs as they contain surfactants. The surfactants create foam and lather which is longer lasting than the ‘fizz’ created by a bath bomb.

Body wash bars

Soap-free and an alternative to shower gel or liquid body wash. Gentle, natural surfactants plus moisturizing and conditioning ingredients create a soft, creamy lather that leaves the skin cleansed and moisturized.

Body scrub bars

Body scrub bars exfoliate the top layer of the epidermis to leave the skin feeling soft and smooth. These bars contain physical exfoliants such as sugar or ground shells (eg walnuts), with lots of moisturizing butters to nourish the skin.

In-shower body oil/moisturizer

An alternative to using a moisturizer after the shower. Use as the final step of a shower routine: rub against the skin after cleansing to leave the skin feeling moisturized and soft. 

Shaving bars

Used as an alternative to shaving foam or gel. Rub against the skin to provide slip and glide for the razor. Skin is left soft and conditioned.

Shower bomb

When crumbled under water the shower bomb becomes a creamy, foaming paste which can be lathered against the skin to cleanse it, creating a novel shower experience. Shower bombs can be fragranced to release a relaxing or uplifting aroma.

Bath bombs

Bath bombs effervesce when dropped into water creating a fun, fizzy bathing experience. They soften the bathwater and soothe and soften the skin. They can be made in bright colors, scented softly or vibrantly and can contain petals or sparkle for added interest.

Bath melts 

Bath melts are indulgent and nourishing. Rich in butters that melt in warm water and leave you with really soft silky skin. Emulsifiers can be included to help the oils disperse in the bath water.

Bath truffles/creamers

Bath creamers and truffles are a cross between a bath melt and bath bomb. With both effervescent and nourishing properties, they are very moisturizing for the skin without leaving the bath too oily.

Zero waste body care

After washing and exfoliating with zero waste shower or bath products you can massage, moisturize, deodorize and scent with zero waste body care products, too!

Lotion bars/body moisturizing bar

Lotion bars are solid at room temperature but they melt when in contact with the skin. They are concentrated, rich and nourishing, and leave the skin feeling soft and smooth. When formulated with essential oils they fragrance the skin, too.

Massage bars

Similar to lotion bars but usually formulated with oils or butters that do not absorb quickly and thus allow enough time for a massage. Oils with good spreadability should be chosen

to make sure the hands can easily glide on the skin during the massage. Texturing agents like coffee beans can be added to enhance the massage experience and appearance of the bar.

Solid deodorant

Solid deodorants are anhydrous bars that contain deodorizing ingredients. The ingredients that will prevent body odor can be antimicrobial, absorbent or a combination of both.

Zero waste beauty: Solid haircare products

Solid shampoos and conditioners have become really popular in recent years and for good reason. You get all the foaming, cleansing and conditioning properties of regular shampoos and conditioners with none of the packaging!

Solid shampoo bars

Solid (powdered) surfactants both create the solid format of these bars and give them their wonderful gentle effective cleansing capabilities and abundant lather. Unlike liquid shampoos, emollients like oils and butters can also be included to nourish the hair.

Solid conditioner bars

All of the nourishing and conditioning ingredients of regular conditioner with none of the water! Special conditioning emulsifiers are combined with nourishing oils and butters to create a solid bar with superior conditioning properties.

Solid hair serum

To add extra moisture to dry hair apply a little hair serum to the ends of the hair. A wonderful zero waste hair treatment!

Zero waste beauty: Cold process soap bars 

Cold process soap bars are a category of zero waste beauty product in their own right!

Soap bars provide gentle and effective cleansing for the skin. Making cold process soap is extremely economical because one batch makes several bars of soap. So if you are just making it for personal use, one batch could make enough soap for several months’ use!

The fatty acids and unsaponifiables in the natural oils and butters used to make soap give the soap nourishing and softening properties. Soap contains glycerin too – a humectant that moisturizes the skin.

When choosing which zero waste beauty products to make you can choose to get into cold process soap making too, or not. As you can see the choice of solid, zero waste beauty products you can make is huge even without soap bars. Add soap bars into the mix and you’ll never need to use beauty products in a bottle ever again!

Make your own zero waste beauty products

We are so passionate about zero waste beauty products that we have created an entire course dedicated to showing you how to make your own zero waste beauty products, either for yourself or to establish a zero waste beauty brand. 

Our brand new online Diploma in Zero Waste Skincare and Haircare Formulation teaches you to formulate a wide range of zero waste beauty products including solid facial cleansers and exfoliators, solid moisturizers and serums, solid deodorant, solid shower products, solid shampoo and conditioner.

You’ll also formulate powder concentrates, and learn about ingredient innovations that are helping to reduce waste – upcycled ingredients and biofermentation.

We look forward to welcoming you to the course!

The post 21 solid, zero waste beauty products you can make appeared first on School of Natural Skincare.